Using ordinary staples and/or nails can lead to rust developing which will show through to the surface very quickly and probably spoil any decoration you have applied, so make sure you use galvanised.ĮML Mesh fixed to wall in hole in lath and plaster wallĪs mentioned above, if there is too much slack in the EML repair then it may be easier to insert a new timber noggin to give the repair greater strength. The mesh can be used for larger repairs or even new walls. More than 2 rows will almost always need reinforcing with extra noggins inserted horizontally between the existing studs to support from the back. The roll of EML is 60mm wide and ideal for small repairs as it can be applied in rows. The EML in it’s various purchased forms can be seen below.ĮML Mesh Fixing EML Over Repair Holes In Plaster And LathĮML needs to be cut using tin snips and can be cut to the shape of the hole and can be easily fixed with galvanised staples. This is the method preferred, and used by most conservation and heritage groups as it keeps the integrity of the wall and allows for the same, slightly uneven finish, associated with lathe and plaster walls. Instead of using plasterboard as outlined above you can also use a galvanised mesh called Expanded Metal Lathing, or EML for short and simply nail this between the studs, keeping it a tight as possible and plastering over the top. Using EML Instead Of Plasterboard To Repair Lath And Plaster For more information on how to plaster see our plastering project pages. Coating with PVA will remove this porosity and make plastering a little more easy. Skim plaster goes hard very quickly and even more quickly when its applied to a very porous surface such as the old plaster. You will need to coat the new plasterboard and the edges of the existing plaster with PVA adhesive. Once they are filled the surface can be plastered with skim plaster. The gaps around the edges (shown in red) can be filled with polyfiller, one coat plaster or flexible filler depending on their size (polyfiller and one coat plaster for larger gaps, flexible filler for smaller gaps). Lath and plaster wall showing replacement plasterboard inserted Fill Gaps Around Edge And Plaster Over For further information on the types of fixings that can be used see our fixings project. as you now have the ideal access to create a firm and solid mounting for any number of things. You may also like to take this opportunity to use the hole that you have created to add some fixings for shelves, coat hooks, TV bracket etc…. Once you have cut back the laths and plaster, you can then place a section of plasterboard in the hole and fix it with galvanised plasterboard nails. Lathe and plaster wall showing plaster removed and laths behind Fix Plasterboard Over The Hole There are two ways of making this repair and in either case you will have to cut back laths and plaster to the nearest studs either side of the hole to make the repair as can be seen in the second image below. Cut Back Laths And Plaster To Nearest Studs With whatever method, plan on your fasteners getting at least 2" into the wall after considering the material thickness you are applying.Īny adhesive could pull the plaster away from the wall if you ever want to remove the treatment.īe prepared to repair the wall in any case but these techniques should at least control against major repair.Although the plaster is missing from the photograph below you can see how difficult repairing lath and plaster walls can be. Removal may crack surrounding plaster but much less so if you are in a stud and prying against a stud when removing. Nails would work too, and look better probably. The masonry bit will need to be fairly small as well but the screw should slide in freely until it hits the stud. when you hit the stud switch to the appropriately sized wood bit for your screws. For ease of removal, I'd recommend screws predrilled (through the treatment then through the plaster) with a carbide masonry bit. Spend time marking them and nail/screw into them as exclusively as possible. Invest in a nice stud finder that has depth settings (deeper settings help find the studs under plaster and lath). This usually happens when hammering into the lath itself instead of the studs. I think the damage you are most trying to avoid with lath and plaster is cracking the plaster away from the lath or breaking the "key" which smooshes through the gaps in lath.
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